After our
unexpectedly high climb on the bike to Col du Pailheres the previous afternoon we were eager to get back on our bikes on Saturday as well.
Unfortunately a mechanical problem with my bottom bracket that had
been steadily getting worse for the past few rides ruled out any
further big rides until it was fixed and so we had to rethink our
plans. Today was forecast to be the last day of dry skies before the
clouds and rain returned to the mountains, bringing the winter snow
with them the following week and we wanted to be outside amongst the
hills for at least one more day. So, leaving our lycra hanging in the
bathroom we instead pulled on our hiking boots for the first time
since Cauterets more than 3 weeks beforehand!
Making time for
Esther to squeeze in a brief trip to the Ax les Thermes market to
restock our fruit and vegetable supplies while I readied the van, we
soon hit the road for a short drive to Forges d'Orlu just 10km away
shortly before 11am. With just an excerpt from an OS map printed on a
tiny leaflet picked up in the Ax les Thermes tourist office the
previous day to go by our aim was to follow the GR7 trail into the
hills towards the Refuge d'En Beys at 1970m. The leaflet indicated
the walk to the hut would take 3 hours from Parking du Fanguil at
1130m, however, we instead chose to park another 3.5km away at the
lower but more accessible parking at Forges d'Orlu (912m). It was a
decision our feet wouldn't appreciate some hours later.
Walking away from
the motorhome in our hiking gear after so many days in the saddle was
exciting and we powered up the initial 3.5km through chilly autumnal
forests on tarmac road to the Parking du Fanguil where we stopped for
lunch. The sky was still mostly overcast with a cool breeze blowing
the leaves as we sat eating some of our remaining black bean and
berry muffins and we resolved to only go as far as the weather
allowed once we set off again. Crossing the river at the parking we
began climbing gently on the trail proper. Excited to be on the GR7,
which runs all the way from the southern coast of Spain, we stayed
alongside the river for the first hour of walking passing lots of
viewpoints revealed by the missing leaves onto the cascading waters.
The time of year, the temperature, the colour of the hills all
reminded us of early autumn hikes in the Lake District.
As the path slowly
curved to the right we emerged into a flattened bowl hemmed in by
high mountains on all sides just as the sun emerged. Trekking along
the slowly undulating and wide path side by side being warmed by the
weak sun felt amazing as we gazed all around at the green sides of
the valley cut with deep scars from the various waterfalls.
At the end of this
flattened valley we entered trees once more and crossed the river to
find the path began climbing steeply over now uneven paths covered in
crisp brown leaves. Estimating we still had around 500m of climbing
to the refuge we pushed on, kicking through the crackling leaves as
we ascended quickly up the neck of the valley towards a high
waterfall cascading down a vertical cliff that we knew flowed out of
the lake alongside the refuge.
The final approach
to this lake was steep and rocky underfoot and the clouds once more
closed over the sun leaving a strong cold wind blowing in our faces
that made us wonder if we might be better to turn around now. From
this final ascent there was no way to see the lake or the valley that
surrounded it, however, the prospect of the view in that hanging
valley was just too tempting and we continued to ascend regardless,
wrapped up now in extra layers. After what felt like a long time we
stepped off the steep path onto a level section that ran straight
around to the waters edge to be greeted by a spectacular view. The
water of the lake, which was black beneath the cloudy sky, rippled in
the breeze and all around bare rock walls rose up to snow dusted
summits that formed a ring above the valley.
No comments
Post a Comment