It was with some
trepidation that we departed Camping Augestern in the Goms Valley
last Sunday, aiming to drive to the top Grimselpass where we planned
to spend the night. We'd done some amazing hikes and cycle rides during our stay and although it was only a 20 mile drive, by reaching
the top of the pass we would be setting a new altitude record (2165m)
for our little van. Having cycled part of the route a few days
earlier, reaching Gletsch on our bikes, we knew the way would be
steep and winding and would once again push the limits of our 2.0l
engine towing our 3.5 tonne home.
Reasoning that the
engine (and me driving) might benefit from a break before tackling
the final steep and dragging switchbacks from Gletsch (1750m), we
decided to break the journey into 2 stages and parked behind Gletsch
tourist office (about half way up) for a breather. By reaching
Gletsch our motorhome had just tackled part of the famous “Four
Passes Tour”, one of Switzerlands most scenic routes. Normally
starting in Meiringen, this enormous loop of the St Gotthard Massif heads
south over the Grimselpass to Oberwald, east over the Nufenen Pass to
Airolo, north over the Gotthard pass to Andermatt and finally west
over the Sustenpass back to Meiringen, climbing more than 8000m in
total!
There is also a
direct route from Gletsch straight to Andermatt over the equally
awesome Furkpass which tops out at an altitude of 2436m affording
awesome views of the massive Rhone Glacier en route. From the comfort
of our driving seats we sat looking at the twisting, steep hairpins
of the Furkpass and decided that the van would get an ideal rest if
we took a quick cycle up and down the Furkapass to get a look at the
glacier ourselves.
10 minutes later
we had donned our lycra and were on our way uphill battling against a
stiff wind.
Three challenging switchbacks were followed by a long
dragging straight that took us along past the tumbling rockfall that
marked the former flow path of the Rhone glacier, which had now
retreated back over the hanging valley and out of sight. Pedalling
steadily on together we soon began the second and final stretch of 5,
ever steepening, switchbacks that would climb the remaining 250m to
our destination at Belvedere (2250m) from where we would be able to
take a short stroll and enjoy a view right along the glacier. About
half way along this section the gradient went up another notch and
Esther feeling strong rode away from me, leaving me to enjoy the
awesome view down into the Goms valley on my own for the final
stretch, with even Mont Blanc visible in the distance all the way in
France.
Reaching Belvedere
after just 45 minutes of intense exercise we locked up our trusty
bikes to a handy railing and practically jogged along the short track
which climbed another 100m or so from the road (You can choose to pay
for the privilege of taking a flat path from the snack bar, but we
much preferred avoiding the crowds and saving the 8CHF each to reach
our higher vantage point). After just 10 minutes we crested a ridge
and the glacier was revealed in all its glory. Back in the last ice
age the Rhone Glacier formed the head of the largest ice sheet in
Switzerland, which was almost entirely covered in ice at the time.
Although the ice sheets have now retreated almost entirely and the
Rhone Glacier is only the second largest remaining, at 9km long and
several km wide, from up this close it is truly breathtaking. It was
also staggering to think that from this one massif, the St Gotthard
Massif, 4 of the great rivers of Europe all originated (Rhone, Rhine,
Reuss, Ticino). Perching ourselves upon a rock in the afternoon
sunshine we did our best to absorb the view, lingering for 2 hours as
other visitors came, snapped a few pictures and went. We just
couldn't get enough of the majestic ice surface that extended for
thousands of metres ahead of us before curving up towards the peaks
beyond.
Eventually
dragging ourselves way we returned to our bikes and cruised our way
back to the motorhome, barely having to pedal a stroke, before
swiftly reattaching the bikes to tackle the final stage of the
Grimselpass. As it turned out we needn't have worried as our
motorhome ably managed the 7 dragging switchbacks to reach the top of
the pass just 20 minutes later where we found the car park of the
Hotel Alpenrosli that would be our base for the night.
Looking out over
the surrounding mountains and valleys from our lofty vantage point as
we enjoyed our dinner, the day visitors disappeared one by one until
only ourselves and handful of other motorhomes remained. It was
almost totally silent. As the sun set and the moon rose over the
mountains, set against a beautiful orange and red sky, we felt a
deep sense of peace and tranquility and went to bed wondering if we
might stay a few more nights as well.
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